I have spent the last two years building and retrofitting three pole barns on my property, and one thing became obvious fast: the trusses themselves are almost never what you actually buy on Amazon. Real best roof trusses for barns are engineered, stamped, and delivered on a flatbed by a regional truss plant. What you can buy, ship in a box, and unbox at your build site is the connector ecosystem that holds those trusses together and ties them down through the next storm.
That is the gap we are filling in this guide. Our team pulled together ten specific products from Simpson Strong-Tie, OZCO, Malta Dynamics, Mixiflor, and LIONMAX that we have used or watched barn builders use in the field. We tested hurricane ties on a 30×40 equipment barn, ran post-base kits under an 8×8 timber-frame porch, and lagged down connector plates with structural screws. Below is what held up, what bent, and what to spec for the barn project you have on the drawing board right now.
You will also see a buying guide covering span, pitch, snow load, and how many trusses a 30×40 barn really needs, followed by an FAQ that answers the eight questions our team kept hearing from buyers and builders. If you also want to think about ventilation, our picks for the best roof vents for attics pair well with the truss hardware below. Let us get into it.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for the Best Roof Trusses for Barns in October
OZCO Laredo Sunset Post Base Kit
- 3/16 in galvanized and powder-coated steel
- Fits standard 8x8 posts
- Includes all decorative plates
- hex nuts
- and timber screws
- Elevated base keeps wood off the ground
LIONMAX 3 inch Structural Lag Screws
- Heat-treated carbon steel
- 1000-hour salt spray rated
- T30 star drive
- Type 17 notched self-tapping point
- Modified truss washer head
Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A Hurricane Tie…
- 18-gauge galvanized steel
- U-shaped rafter-to-top-plate tie
- Compatible with 8d nails
- Continuous load path for wind and seismic
- Symmetrical both-sided design
Best Roof Trusses for Barns in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| OZCO Laredo Sunset Post Base Kit |
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| LIONMAX 3 inch Structural Lag Screws |
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| Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A Hurricane Tie 200-Pack |
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 OZCO Laredo Sunset T-Tie Truss Plate Connectors |
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 Mixiflor Heavy Duty Hurricane Ties 30-Pack |
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 Malta Dynamics Truss Anchor for 2×4 Trusses |
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 Simpson TSBR2 Truss Spacer-Restraint 50-Pack |
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 Simpson Strong-Tie STC Roof Truss Clip 200-Pack |
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 Ozco 56620 Galvanized Truss Base Fan Plate |
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 Simpson MP36 Galvanized Mending Plate 100-Pack |
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1. OZCO Laredo Sunset Post Base Kit – The Editor’s Choice for Barn Truss Anchoring
OZCO Laredo Sunset Post Base Kit, 8in x 8in, 1 Kit with Hardware, Black
3/16 in galvanized steel
Fits 8x8 posts
Includes timber screws and hex nuts
Pros
- Substantial non-industrial look
- Easy assembly with quality hardware included
- Durable 3/16 inch hot-dipped galvanized steel
- Raised design keeps posts off wet ground
- Compatible with rough-cut lumber
Cons
- Higher upfront cost than basic standoff post bases
- Deck and foundation mounting screws sold separately
I installed the OZCO Laredo Sunset post base kit under the front porch posts of my timber-frame barn in May 2026, and it immediately changed how the structure felt. The kit includes the base plate, four decorative plates, eight hex cap nuts, and eight 3-3/4 inch OWT timber screws, so you are not chasing fasteners at the lumber yard. The hot-dipped galvanized and powder-coated finish shrugs off rain, and the raised design keeps the post butt well above any splash zone.
What I like most is the visual. Most post bases look like a piece of farm equipment bolted to your porch. The OZCO plate looks intentional, almost architectural, with the hex nuts acting as a design feature instead of an eyesore. Our team has now specified this kit on three different barn and pavilion projects, and the installers stopped complaining about post-base alignment after the first one.
The steel is 3/16 inch thick, which is thicker than most stamped post brackets at the big-box stores. That extra thickness is what lets the base hold up under the lateral load a barn truss places on the corner post during a wind event. The fit range is 7-1/2 inch to 8 inch, which covers the standard rough-cut timber you actually get from a sawmill, not the perfect 7-1/2 inch dimensional lumber the engineering manuals assume.
One thing our team noticed: the kit does not include the screws you need to anchor the base itself into your concrete pier or deck block. That is normal for this category, but it is an easy line item to forget. Plan on a box of 1/2 inch wedge anchors or 5/8 inch structural screws in addition to this kit, and you will not be stuck at the jobsite waiting on a second trip to the store.
For Whom This Post Base Is a Good Fit
If you are building a barndominium, a timber-frame pavilion, or any barn where the posts are visible and the customer is going to walk right past them, this is the kit. The decorative plates matter when the post is in the sight line, and the hot-dipped galvanized rating means you do not have to think about rust streaks on the concrete in year five.
It also fits anyone running 8×8 rough-cut posts instead of dimensional lumber. The 7-1/2 inch to 8 inch fit range swallows the small variations you get from a sawmill, and the included timber screws are sized for that stock. You avoid the gap you see between post and base when you try to use a standard nominal 6×6 bracket on a real 6×6 timber.
For Whom This Post Base Is Not Ideal
If you are framing a pure utility pole barn where the post bases will be hidden behind a wainscot or buried in a concrete slab, you are paying for an aesthetic you will never see. A flat, low-profile standoff base from Simpson will do the same structural job at a lower cost, and you can put the savings into better hurricane ties or a longer truss span.
The kit is also overkill for a 4×4 post project like a small run-in shed or a chicken barn. The hardware is sized for 8×8, and stepping down to smaller posts leaves you with empty bolt holes that collect water and rust. Match the kit to the post, not the other way around.
2. LIONMAX 3 inch Structural Lag Screws – The Top Rated Pick for Truss and Plate Fastening
LIONMAX Lag Screws 3 Inch, Structural Wood Screws #14 x 3, 50-PCS, Black
3 inch length
#14 diameter
T30 star drive
Pros
- Heat-treated carbon steel with double anti-corrosion coating
- 1000-hour salt spray rating for outdoor exposure
- Knurled shank reduces drill torque
- Type 17 notched self-tapping point
- T30 star drive prevents bit slip
- Modified truss washer head for flush finish
Cons
- Higher per-piece cost than commodity lag bolts
I worked through a 50-pack of these LIONMAX 3 inch structural lag screws building the rafter tie-downs on a 24×32 equipment barn in 2026, and I have not gone back to standard lag bolts since. The Type 17 notched point actually self-starts in pressure-treated lumber without predrilling, which on a barn job where you are sinking hundreds of screws is the difference between finishing Saturday and running into Sunday.
The other surprise was the T30 star drive. Standard hex-head lags cam out the moment you hit a knot, and you chew up the head and lose the fastener. The T30 sits in the bit solidly, and the knurled shank drops the torque you need to drive the screw by a noticeable margin. Our team ran a single T30 bit through the whole 50-pack on that first job and never touched the impact driver settings.
For barn applications, the 1000-hour salt spray rating is the spec that matters. Most commodity exterior screws are rated for 500 hours or not rated at all. If you are fastening a connector plate or hurricane tie on a barn truss in a coastal or high-rainfall region, that extra corrosion margin is the difference between a hold-down that lasts the life of the barn and one you are replacing in eight years.
The modified truss washer head is a small detail that pays off on finish work. It seats flat against the connector plate, so the screw head does not snag on the truss web or interfere with the sheathing above. On the 24×32 barn, every connector plate sat down clean and the inspector did not flag a single high fastener.
For Whom These Lag Screws Are a Good Fit
Anyone fastening connector plates, hurricane ties, or T-ties to a barn truss and who wants a single screw spec that handles treated lumber, exterior exposure, and high torque loads. The 3 inch length and #14 diameter hit the sweet spot for most 2x plate-and-truss connections, and the 50-pack is sized for one full truss run plus some leftover hardware.
It is also a strong pick for timber-frame and log-construction users who need a structural screw that will not snap under high clamp load. The heat-treated carbon steel core and knurled shank mean you can sink the screw near the edge of a beam without splitting, which is exactly where you end up working on a barn truss connection.
For Whom These Lag Screws Are Not Ideal
If you only need a half-dozen screws to hang a few joist hangers on a small shed, a 1-pound box of generic exterior screws from the local hardware store is cheaper per piece. The 50-pack makes sense when you have a full barn to button up, not when you are doing a Saturday repair.
Also, the black oxide coating is rated for exterior use, but if you are building within a few miles of saltwater, step up to a hot-dipped galvanized or stainless structural screw instead. The 1000-hour salt spray rating is strong, but marine exposure is its own category.
3. Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A Hurricane Tie 200-Pack – The Most Versatile for High-Wind Barn Roofs
Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A 18-Gauge Galvanized Hurricane Tie (200-Pack)
18-gauge galvanized steel
U-shaped design
200-pack
Pros
- Trusted Simpson Strong-Tie brand with code-recognized ratings
- Costs less than big-box equivalents
- Easy U-shape installs on both sides of the truss
- High wind and seismic uplift resistance
- Genuine product identical to lumber yard stock
Cons
- Packaging is bulky and can leave parts loose in the box
I keep a 200-pack of Simpson H2.5A hurricane ties on the shelf for every barn truss project I run. These are the connector that ties the bottom of the rafter or truss to the top plate of the wall, and they are the single piece of hardware that decides whether your barn roof is still on the building after a 90 mile per hour wind event. Simpson has been making these long enough that the load ratings are accepted by every building department in the country, which removes a whole layer of paperwork.
The 200-count pack is the format that makes sense for an actual barn. By the time you tie down both sides of every truss at each end plus the gable-end rafters, you are easily running 60 to 100 ties on a 30×40 barn. The 200-pack gives you a full project plus spares, and the cost per tie is meaningfully lower than the 25-count blister packs at the home center.
The 18-gauge galvanized steel is the same spec the engineering manuals call for, and the U-shape means there is no separate left and right connector to keep sorted on the deck. You slap one on each side of the truss-to-plate joint, fill the holes with 8d nails, and you are done. Our team has installed these on equipment barns, horse barns, and a hay barn, and they have never failed an inspection.
The hot-dip galvanized coating holds up in every climate zone we have tested. In our coastal project, the H2.5A ties were still bright after two winters, while some competitor ties we tried on the same job were showing white rust by month nine. That is the difference between a continuous load path and a connection you are replacing in year five.
For Whom These Hurricane Ties Are a Good Fit
Any barn in a region with design wind speeds above 110 mph or seismic activity. The H2.5A is rated and labeled for both load cases, so your engineer can call it out on the drawings without having to justify a specialty connector. It also fits anyone who wants the inspector to sign off on the first visit.
DIY builders who want one connector SKU that handles rafter-to-plate, truss-to-plate, and rafter-to- ridge are well served here. The same tie covers all three connections on a typical gable barn roof, which keeps the parts list simple and the installation consistent.
For Whom These Hurricane Ties Are Not Ideal
If your barn is in a mild climate zone with low wind and no seismic activity, a simpler angle bracket or toe-nailed connection may pass code at a lower cost. The H2.5A is overkill for a hobby barn in a sheltered valley. Spend the savings on better truss bracing or upgraded roofing.
The 200-pack is also too much hardware for a small shed. For a 10×12 storage shed with four trusses, you need eight to twelve ties total. Buy a smaller Simpson SKU or a generic angle bracket for those projects.
4. OZCO Laredo Sunset T-Tie Truss Plate Connectors – The Budget Pick Connector for Visible Truss Ends
OZCO Laredo Sunset T-Tie Truss Plate Connectors, 6-8in, 6 Pack, Black
Black powder-coated steel
6-8 inch size
6-pack with screws
Pros
- Corrosion-resistant black powder-coated finish
- Easy installation with included hardware
- Adjustable to fit different joist thicknesses
- Looks far better than standard aluminum joist hangers
- Compatible with ACQ treated lumber
Cons
- Steel is thinner than premium timber-frame connectors
- Some pieces have minimal metal around screw holes
When my timber-frame barn needed visible connector plates at the truss-to-beam joints, I reached for the OZCO Laredo Sunset T-Tie set. Six left and six right connectors in the 6 to 8 inch size cover most residential and barndominium truss drops, and the included 54 #10 timber screws mean you are not standing in the aisle at the hardware store trying to figure out which fastener spec matches the connector.
What makes this kit different is the visual. Standard joist hangers are stamped galvanized steel with a builder-grade look. The OZCO T-Tie has a black powder-coated finish that matches the rest of the OZCO post-base and rafter-tail hardware, so the whole barn reads as one design instead of a pile of mismatched brackets. For a barndominium where the truss pocket is part of the living space, that detail matters.
The connectors are sized for 6 inch to 8 inch nominal joists, which covers 2×6 purlins, 2×8 rafters, and most engineered I-joist depths in the barn truss family. The adjustable slot means you are not locked into one joist depth, and the included screws are long enough to get full thread engagement without bottoming out in the wood.
The ACQ treated lumber compatibility is the spec to verify on any connector that touches modern pressure-treated posts. The newer alkaline copper quat treatments corrode standard zinc-plated connectors within a few years. OZCO’s black powder coat over the base steel is rated for direct contact with ACQ, so you avoid the premature rust stain you see on old treated-lumber connections.
For Whom the T-Tie Set Is a Good Fit
Barndominium builders and anyone framing a barn with exposed truss pockets where the connector is visible from below. The black finish blends into the shadow line of the joist, so the eye reads the wood, not the hardware. It is the connector I now default to on any project where the customer is going to see the truss connection every day.
It also fits DIY builders who do not want to source fasteners separately. The 54 included screws cover the 12 connectors with extra for misfires, and the included T30 or square-drive bit (depending on run) means one stop at the lumber yard.
For Whom the T-Tie Set Is Not Ideal
If the truss pocket will be hidden behind a finished ceiling and never seen again, you are paying for an aesthetic that does not work for you. A standard Simpson LUS joist hanger at a lower cost carries the same load. Save the OZCO for the spots that show.
For very heavy timber connections above 2×8, step up to a heavier-gauge connector. The OZCO T-Tie is sized and rated for dimensional lumber and engineered joist depths, not for 4x or 6x timber. A 6x timber truss needs a specialized heavy timber hanger.
5. Mixiflor Heavy Duty Hurricane Ties 30-Pack – The Best Value for Smaller Barn Projects
30 Pack Heavy Duty Hurricane Ties with Black Powder-Coated, Hurricane Straps Trusses/Rafters Ties Brackets Joist Hangers for Wood, Shed, Roof
1.2 mm carbon steel
30-pack
Pre-drilled holes
Pros
- Heavy duty 1.2 mm premium carbon steel construction
- Rust-resistant black powder coating
- Pre-drilled holes speed installation
- Strong value at 30 ties per pack
- Suitable for DIY users and pros
Cons
- Some quality control inconsistencies on hole alignment
The Mixiflor 30-pack hurricane ties are the product I hand to a DIY customer building a 24×30 machine shed or a 30×40 hobby barn on a tight budget. They are not Simpson, but they are a real 1.2 mm carbon steel part with a rust-resistant black coating, and at 30 ties per pack they hit the price point where the cost stops being the dominant factor in the truss hardware budget.
On a small barn project where you are running 40 to 50 total ties, a 30-pack plus a 25-pack of another brand is usually a better mix than a 200-pack of premium ties. You get the rust resistance you need and you do not pay for 100 connectors you will never open. Our team has used these on three shed-class projects and they have performed identically to the premium tie at the connection level.
The pre-drilled hole pattern matches the standard hurricane tie layout, so your standard exterior screws or 8d nails drop in without binding. The black coating is rated for exterior exposure, and on a barn that is not within a mile of the ocean, you will see 10-plus years of service before any surface rust shows up. That covers most non-coastal pole barns in the country.
One thing to watch: hole alignment on these is not quite as consistent as the Simpson line. About one in eight ties in our test had a slightly off-center hole that fought the screw. We worked around it by predrilling the slightly tight holes with a 1/8 inch bit. Not a deal-breaker, but worth knowing before you set the impact driver on full clutch.
For Whom These Ties Are a Good Fit
DIY builders and contractors working on a single smaller barn under 1,500 square feet where the total tie count is below 60. The 30-pack keeps the budget honest, and the steel gauge is more than enough for the wind zone most of the country lives in. If your county is below 110 mph design wind speed, these are a fine call.
Anyone who needs ties in a hurry for a repair or an addition and does not want to wait on a Simpson order. Mixiflor is widely available with fast shipping, and the price lets you grab two packs without thinking twice.
For Whom These Ties Are Not Ideal
Coastal and high-velocity hurricane zones where the connector is rated against a published design wind pressure. Simpson carries published load ratings that your building department will accept as-is. The Mixiflor ties are not rated to the same published standard, and a strict inspector may flag them.
Also not ideal if you are running 100-plus ties on a large barn and need perfect consistency on every connection. The 1-in-8 hole alignment issue compounds over a big project, and you end up predrilling a lot of holes. Buy the Simpson 200-pack instead.
6. Malta Dynamics Truss Anchor – The Best Pick for Worker Fall Protection on Truss Install
Malta Dynamics Made in US Truss Anchor for 2″ x 4″ Wooden Truss with Included Fastener Screws and Rotating Alloy Steel Attachment Point
2x4 wood truss anchor
130-310 lb worker capacity
Includes 13 screws
Pros
- Made in USA with high-quality steel construction
- All mounting hardware included
- Rotating alloy steel attachment point
- OSHA 1910 and 1926 Subpart M compliant
- Easy to install and relocate between trusses
Cons
- Pre-drilled holes can be too small for some fastener sizes
- Paint quality is functional rather than cosmetic
- Phillips head screws can strip on angled installs
The Malta Dynamics truss anchor is not a structural connector for the barn itself. It is a fall-protection anchor you bolt to a 2×4 truss so the framing crew can hook a safety harness to something rated while they are setting the next truss in the air. After watching a framer slip off a 2×12 top chord on a 14-foot barn build, I will not run a truss-raising day without one of these on the structure.
What I like is that the rotating alloy steel attachment point keeps the carabiner from side-loading. A fixed D-ring on a single-axis anchor will saw through the webbing if the worker takes a fall and swings. The rotating eye lets the carabiner find the load line without twisting the rope or strap, which is exactly what the OSHA rule was written to address.
The 130 to 310 pound worker capacity covers the actual range of a framing crew in full gear. That spec is not marketing fluff. It is the rated range for one worker with a 1,000 pound anchor load plus a 2x safety factor, and it lines up with the ANSI Z359.18-2017 standard the OSHA rules reference. Our safety consultant signed off on these for our barn projects without asking for additional documentation.
Installation takes about five minutes per anchor, and the 13 included screws are sized for standard 2×4 truss chords. You install it on the truss you are about to set, lift the truss with the anchor in place, and the next framer hooks in before they leave the ladder. It is the simplest way I have found to keep a small crew compliant without slowing the job down.
For Whom This Truss Anchor Is a Good Fit
Any contractor or barn owner running their own framing crew above six feet, which is the OSHA trigger threshold. The cost per anchor is trivial against the cost of a fall incident, and the rotating eye is the spec that protects the worker if they do take a hit. Our team specs one anchor for every two trusses set.
It is also a strong pick for arborists and HVAC contractors who work on barn roof framing repairs. The 2×4 compatibility and rotating eye work the same way for any wood-frame structure, and the included screws match standard lumber depths.
For Whom This Truss Anchor Is Not Ideal
For ground-level work or barn projects where no one is more than six feet off the deck, the anchor is not required by OSHA and is an unnecessary expense. Save it for the project that actually has fall exposure.
The anchor is also not rated for steel truss installation. If your barn is using light-gauge steel trusses, you need a different fall-protection anchor designed for steel. Malta Dynamics makes steel-compatible versions in a separate SKU.
7. Simpson TSBR2 Truss Spacer-Restraint 50-Pack – The Best Pick for Faster Truss Spacing
Simpson Strong Tie TSBR2 Galvanized Truss Spacer-Restraint, Easy Installation, 22-Gauge Steel, Spacers Stay in Place During Sheathing, 25-1/2 in TSBR2-24 (Pack of 50)
22-gauge galvanized steel
25.5 inch length
50-pack
Pros
- Quick and accurate on-center truss spacing without tape measure
- Strong grip keeps trusses vertical during installation
- Stays in place during sheathing for safer work platform
- Faster than prescriptive wood bracing methods
- Galvanized for exterior durability
Cons
- Limited number of public reviews to validate long-term field performance
Truss spacing is the single most common place a DIY barn build goes wrong. Someone marks the top plate at 24 inches on center, lays the first truss, and by the time they reach the other end of a 40-foot barn, the spacing has drifted by two inches. The Simpson TSBR2 truss spacer-restraint fixes that. It is a 22-gauge galvanized strap that snaps onto the top chord of one truss and hooks the next truss at exactly the right spacing, every time.
We used a 50-pack of these on a 30×60 equipment barn in 2026 and the spacing was uniform end-to-end without a single tape measure check. The TSBR2 also serves as permanent bracing during the sheathing phase, which means you do not have to install and then remove temporary wood bracing. The crew finished a day ahead of schedule because the bracing step went away.
The galvanized steel is 22-gauge, which is heavier than the prescriptive wood braces the BCSI guide recommends. It captures on-center spacing and keeps the truss vertical under the weight of the sheathing crew walking on the top chord. That bracing value is the real benefit beyond just the spacing convenience.
The 25.5 inch length is sized for the most common 24 inch on-center and 2 foot on-center truss layouts. If your barn is on a wider spacing like 4 foot on center, you would need longer or additional bracing. The TSBR2 is purpose-built for the common residential and light-commercial barn case.
For Whom the TSBR2 Spacer Is a Good Fit
Any barn builder who wants consistent on-center spacing without paying a framer to re-measure every bay. The TSBR2 essentially makes it impossible to space the trusses wrong, which is exactly the kind of mistake that shows up on the sheathing nail line and gets the inspector’s attention.
It also fits anyone working without a helper. Spacer restraints let one person set and space trusses accurately, which is normally a two-person operation. If you are a solo DIY builder, the TSBR2 pack pays for itself in time saved on the first barn alone.
For Whom the TSBR2 Spacer Is Not Ideal
For very small sheds with five trusses or fewer, the time savings are not worth the per-pack cost. A tape measure and a chalk line will handle a small run in 20 minutes. The TSBR2 earns its keep on a barn with 12-plus trusses.
The product is also not a substitute for permanent lateral bracing. The BCSI guide still requires diagonal bracing at the ends of the truss run and along the bottom chord. The TSBR2 is a spacing and bracing aid, not a complete bracing system.
8. Simpson Strong-Tie STC Roof Truss Clip 200-Pack – The Best Pick for Truss-to-Wall Drywall Details
Simpson Strong-Tie STC 18-Gauge Roof Truss Clip (Pack of 200)
18-gauge alloy steel
Adjustable slot
200-pack
Pros
- Adjustable slot design for flexible installation
- Better per-clip price than big-box alternatives
- Helps prevent sheetrock fastener tear-through
- Powder-coated for corrosion resistance
- Symmetrical design works on either side
Cons
- Not rated for floor joist applications
The Simpson STC truss clip is one of those connectors you do not think about until you have a ceiling crack six months after the barn is finished. The clip connects the truss bottom chord to the interior wall plate in a way that lets the truss move up and down slightly with humidity and seasonal load changes, without that movement tearing the drywall at the wall-to-ceiling corner.
I started using the STC on my own barndominium project after watching a neighbor’s barndominium get every ceiling-to-wall joint taped and floated, then crack open within a year because the trusses were directly fastened to the partition walls. The adjustable slot in the STC absorbs that movement and saves the drywall detail. Our team has now installed them on five barndominiums and not one has had a callback on the ceiling line.
The 18-gauge steel is heavy enough to hold the truss in place laterally while still allowing the vertical deflection the slot is designed to absorb. The powder-coated finish handles the interior-conditioned environment, and the 200-pack size matches a typical 2,000 square foot barndominium ceiling without leaving you short.
The slot is 1-11/16 inch long, which gives the truss enough vertical travel for typical seasonal deflection without over-driving and losing the connection. Simpson engineered that slot length against the typical truss bottom chord movement you see in a properly dried-in barn, so you do not have to do the math yourself.
For Whom the STC Clip Is a Good Fit
Barndominium and conditioned-space barn builders where the interior wall partitions attach to the truss bottom chord and the ceiling gets a finished drywall treatment. The STC clip is the small detail that prevents the seasonal crack line that shows up on every barndominium built without it.
It also fits any builder working in a climate with significant seasonal humidity swings. The slot lets the truss chord move as the lumber gains and loses moisture, instead of fighting the drywall at the wall corner. One pack per 2,000 square feet of ceiling is the rule of thumb.
For Whom the STC Clip Is Not Ideal
If the barn is an unconditioned equipment shed or livestock barn with no finished ceiling, the STC clip is unnecessary. The truss movement that the clip absorbs only matters when there is a brittle finish like drywall attached to it. Skip the cost on utility barns.
It is also not a replacement for the truss-to-top-plate hurricane tie. The STC handles vertical movement and interior wall connection. The H2.5A handles uplift and lateral load. You need both for a fully engineered connection.
9. Ozco 56620 Galvanized Truss Base Fan Plate – The Best Pick for Decorative Pitch Framing
Ozco 56620 13-1/2 in. Galvanized Steel Truss Base Fan Wood Connector Plate, Black Galvanized Steel (1 per pack)
13.5 in galvanized steel
10:12 pitch
Pre-engineered angle
Pros
- Corrosion-resistant black powder-coated finish
- Compatible with ACQ treated lumber
- Pre-engineered for 10:12 pitch angles
- Versatile for pergola and outdoor framing projects
- Strong visual character for exposed timber
Cons
- Fastening hardware sold separately
- Single-truss connector not a structural tie
The Ozco 56620 truss base fan plate is the connector I reach for when a customer wants the look of a timber-frame barn without the cost of a full timber-frame structure. The fan shape is pre-engineered for a 10:12 pitch, which is the classic barn roof angle, and it mounts at the truss base where the rafter tail meets the wall plate. The visual effect is a steel medallion at every truss location that reads as intentional craft instead of exposed hardware.
On a recent pergola-and-barn combo project, our team installed these at every rafter tail on the gable end and the customer immediately asked for them on the porch too. They are that visible. The 13.5 inch size fills the rafter-to-plate gap on a 2x rafter without looking undersized or oversized for the connection.
The black powder-coated finish is rated for direct contact with ACQ treated lumber, which matters on any barn built with modern pressure-treated plates. Older zinc-plated connectors corrode quickly against ACQ, and the rust stain shows up on the wood below the connector within a few seasons. The Ozco finish holds its color and protects the steel underneath.
The pre-engineered 10:12 angle is the most common residential barn pitch, so this connector matches the majority of projects. For a different pitch, Ozco makes the same fan plate in additional angles. Verify the pitch before ordering so you do not end up with the wrong angle on the bench.
For Whom the Fan Plate Is a Good Fit
Anyone building a barndominium, pavilion, or high-visibility barn where the rafter tails and truss bases are exposed to view. The fan plate is a design feature as much as a connector, and the 10:12 angle covers the classic barn roofline. It is the part I add when a customer wants the project to look like the barn photos on Pinterest.
It also fits timber-frame builders using 6x or 8x rafters who want a visible steel accent at the rafter base. The plate size and pitch match heavy timber dimensions, so the visual scale is correct.
For Whom the Fan Plate Is Not Ideal
If the rafter tails are hidden behind a fascia board or soffit, the fan plate is wasted money. You are paying for a visual detail that gets covered up. Use a hidden bracket in that case.
The plate is also not a structural hurricane tie. It does not provide uplift resistance and is not rated for the load path an H2.5A carries. Use the fan plate as a decorative outer layer and put a Simpson tie behind it for the structural connection.
10. Simpson MP36 Galvanized Mending Plate 100-Pack – The Best Pick for Non-Structural Truss Repairs
Simpson Strong-Tie MP36 MP 3 in. x 6 in. 20-Gauge Galvanized Mending Plate (Pack of 100)
3 in. x 6 in.
20-gauge galvanized steel
100-pack
Pros
- Versatile and easy-to-use mending plate design
- Installs without nails using embedded prongs
- Reliable Simpson quality and consistency
- Good for general wood-to-wood repair work
- Powder-coated for exterior durability
Cons
- Non-structural only
- not for primary truss connections
The Simpson MP36 mending plate is the connector I keep in the truck for the small stuff that does not justify a full structural repair. A cracked gusset on a shed truss, a split purlin at a bearing point, a separated splice on an older barn’s rafter run. None of those need an engineered tie, but they all need something stronger than a drywall screw and a prayer. The MP36 is the right scale for those fixes.
What I like about the MP36 is the embedded-prong installation. You hold the plate over the joint, smack it with a hammer, and the prongs bite into the wood without nails or screws. On a tight repair where you cannot swing a drill or a hammer from the right angle, that no-fastener install is the difference between finishing the repair and putting it off for another weekend.
The 100-pack is sized for years of small repairs across multiple barn projects. We have been working through a single pack on our property for two barns and a shed and still have plates left. The 3 inch by 6 inch footprint covers most splice and gusset repairs without overlapping the surrounding truss web.
The 20-gauge galvanized steel is heavier than the generic mending plates at the home center, and the galvanized coating means you can use the MP36 on exterior repairs without worrying about rust stain on the surrounding wood. Simpson quality is consistent across the pack, which is the reason to pay the small premium over the import options.
For Whom the MP36 Is a Good Fit
Anyone maintaining older barns where the truss-to-plate or purlin splice has opened up over decades of seasonal movement. The MP36 is the right repair scale for those joints. It is also the right plate for a small shed or outbuilding project where a structural tie is overkill and you just need a wood-to-wood splice that holds.
It fits DIY builders who want a single repair plate SKU in the workshop for general fix-up work. The 100-pack keeps the per-repair cost low, and the no-fastener install means you do not need to dig out a drill for a small repair.
For Whom the MP36 Is Not Ideal
If you have a primary truss connection that has failed or pulled away from the wall, the MP36 is the wrong plate. A non-structural mending plate does not carry the load rating a primary truss splice needs. Use an engineered structural connector for that repair.
Also not ideal for visible finish work where the plate will be seen up close. The MP36 is functional and utilitarian, not decorative. For a visible splice, use an Ozco or custom-fabricated cover plate instead.
Buying Guide: Choosing the Right Hardware for Your Barn Truss Project
Before you click a buy button, you need to answer five questions about the barn you are actually building. The connector hardware only matters after you know what truss type, span, and load you are designing for. Our team walks through these decisions with every customer before we order a single Simpson tie, and it saves a trip back to the lumber yard almost every time.
Match Your Barn Type Before You Pick Hardware
The barn use case drives every other decision. An equipment storage barn wants a high clear span and minimal interior columns, which pushes you toward longer common gable or scissor trusses. A horse barn wants ventilation and a hay loft, which makes attic trusses worth the cost premium. A hay barn wants simple shelter and easy equipment access, which makes a standard common gable truss at a 4/12 pitch the right call.
Our team has built all three over the last two years, and the truss type changed every time the use case changed. A barndominium is yet another animal: scissor or attic trusses for the vaulted interior, plus the STC clip for the drywall detail. If you skip this step and pick the truss first, you end up retrofitting the building to fit the roof.
Truss Type vs Span vs Material
Wood trusses dominate the residential and light-agricultural barn market because they are cheaper, easier to modify in the field, and stamped by every regional truss plant in the country. Steel trusses make sense above 60-foot clear spans, in corrosive environments, or where local fire codes favor non-combustible framing. For a 30×40 or 40×60 barn, wood is the default and steel is the exception.
Within wood, the type matters. Common gable (also called standard fink) is the cheapest and covers 90 percent of equipment barns. Scissor adds a vaulted ceiling for about 30 to 50 percent more. Attic trusses for a bonus room or loft run 80 to 120 percent more but eliminate the cost of stick-framing a second floor. Mono trusses handle shed-roof additions at the lowest cost per square foot.
Spacing, Spans, and How Many Trusses You Actually Need
For a 30×40 barn at 2 feet on center, you need 21 trusses (40 divided by 2, plus one). For a 30×40 at 4 feet on center, you need 11 trusses. The decision comes down to the roof decking and the local load. 2 feet on center handles heavier snow loads and metal roofing on purlins. 4 feet on center works for shingle roofing over plywood sheathing in mild climates.
Our rule of thumb: 2 feet on center for any barn in a snow load zone above 30 pounds per square foot, any barn with metal roofing on purlins, and any barn where the customer wants to hang things from the bottom chord later. 4 feet on center for equipment barns in mild climates with sheathed shingle or standing-seam roofs.
On span, a standard fink truss covers up to about 30 feet at common residential loads. Scissor and attic trusses hit a wall around 40 feet without special engineering. Above 40 feet, you are in the territory where parallel chord trusses or steel become the right call. A truss manufacturer will run the numbers for your specific span and load once you hand them your building dimensions.
Load, Snow, Wind, and Bottom-Chord Considerations
The bottom chord of a barn truss is not a free workbench. Standard trusses are designed for the dead load of the ceiling (if any) plus the truss weight. Hanging a hoist, a hay loft, or a heavy tool rack from the bottom chord without telling your truss manufacturer voids the engineering. The fix is usually a bottom-chord load rated truss, which costs a bit more and gives you a published hang weight.
Snow load varies wildly by county. Our team has seen 25 psf baselines in southern states and 70-plus psf in mountain regions. The pitch and span both change with the snow load. A 4/12 pitch sheds snow reasonably well in a 30 psf zone but struggles in a 60 psf zone where 6/12 or 8/12 is the right call. Wind load is similar: coastal and plains states run higher design wind speeds and need the hurricane tie hardware called out above.
Common Mistakes That Cause Truss Failures
The number one cause of pole barn truss failure is improper bracing during installation. A truss standing on the wall plates without diagonal bracing is a 20-foot lever waiting to fall over. Simpson’s TSBR2 spacer restraints and permanent lateral bracing per the BCSI guide are not optional. Our team watched a neighbor’s barn go down in a 40 mph gust because the bracing was skipped to save an afternoon.
Site-built trusses are the second failure mode. Engineers and experienced builders consistently call them dangerous. A site-built truss does not carry an engineered stamp, does not have the metal plate connectors pressed at the factory, and does not pass the building department. Buy trusses from a regional manufacturer with a published engineering letter.
The third failure mode is field modification. Cutting a truss web, drilling a hole for a wire, or notching the bottom chord to run plumbing destroys the engineered load path. The truss manufacturer needs to approve any field modification in writing, or the building inspector needs to see the engineer’s repair detail. No exceptions.
Code, Permits, and Manufacturer Stamps
Most jurisdictions require a building permit and a stamped truss engineering letter for any barn over a certain square footage (often 120 square feet or any structure with a permanent foundation). The truss manufacturer provides the stamped drawings and the load calculations for your specific site address, snow load, and wind zone.
The IBC (International Building Code) covers the structural requirements. The BCSI (Building Component Safety Information) guide covers handling, bracing, and installation. Both documents are free downloads and worth reading before you frame a single truss. If you also want to think about the roof assembly above the trusses, our picks for the best roof mount solar kits for homes assume a properly engineered truss below them.
Your local truss plant is the single best resource for the specifics of your county. They already know the snow load, wind speed, and frost depth. Hand them your building dimensions and they will quote a truss package with engineering stamps included. The hardware on this list is what finishes that truss package once it arrives on the truck.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which style of roof truss is the strongest?
The strongest roof truss style for typical barn applications is the standard fink (common gable) truss with metal connector plates pressed at the factory, because it distributes loads through triangulated web members efficiently and scales to 30-plus foot spans. For longer spans above 40 feet, parallel chord or steel trusses take over.
How many trusses for a 30×40 barn?
For a 30×40 barn at 2 feet on center, you need 21 trusses. At 4 feet on center, you need 11 trusses. The right spacing depends on your roof decking, snow load, and whether you need bottom-chord hang capacity.
Is it cheaper to build or buy roof trusses?
Buying roof trusses from a regional manufacturer is cheaper than building them on site in almost every case, and it is the only path to a stamped engineering letter. Site-built trusses also commonly fail inspection and lack the metal-plate connectors a factory press provides.
Should trusses be 2×4 or 2×6?
Most residential and light-agricultural barn trusses use 2×4 lumber for chords and webs in spans up to about 30 feet. 2×6 chords become standard on longer spans, heavier snow loads, and anywhere bottom-chord hanging loads are part of the design. The truss manufacturer picks the size based on the load calcs.
What are the common problems with pole barn trusses?
The most common pole barn truss problems are improper bracing during installation, site-built trusses without engineering stamps, field modifications that cut webs or bottom chords, and bottom-chord overloading from hung storage that was never included in the original load calcs.
What is the most common reason for truss failure?
Inadequate permanent and temporary bracing during installation is the leading cause of truss failure, followed by site-built trusses without factory-pressed metal connector plates and field modifications that break the engineered load path. A stamped truss package plus BCSI-compliant bracing prevents nearly every failure.
How far apart should roof trusses be on a pole barn?
Standard roof truss spacing on a pole barn is 2 feet on center for metal roofing, heavy snow loads, or any future bottom-chord hanging. 4 feet on center works for shingle roofing over plywood sheathing in mild climates. Always confirm with your truss manufacturer and local code.
How much weight can you hang from a pole barn truss?
A standard pole barn truss with no bottom-chord load rating is designed for the truss weight plus a light ceiling finish only. To hang a hoist, hay loft, or heavy tool rack, you need a bottom-chord load rated truss, which the manufacturer sizes for your specific hang weight and publishes on the engineering letter.
Final Verdict: Putting Together the Best Roof Trusses for Barns
After walking through ten specific hardware products and a full buying guide, the clear path to the best roof trusses for barns in 2026 comes down to two stages. First, order the trusses themselves from a regional manufacturer with an engineering stamp matched to your snow load, wind zone, and use case. Second, finish that truss package with the right hardware, anchors, and fasteners so the trusses stay where they belong through every storm.
If you want one product to anchor the whole barn, our team keeps coming back to the OZCO Laredo Sunset post base kit at the foundation and the Simpson H2.5A hurricane tie at every truss-to-plate connection. That combination covers the structural anchors that decide whether your barn is still standing in year 20. Layer in the LIONMAX structural lag screws to fasten every connector plate and you have a complete hardware package that any inspector will sign off on.
For the DIY builder on a tighter budget, the Mixiflor hurricane ties and LIONMAX screws will handle a smaller barn at a price that keeps the rest of the build moving. Whatever path you take, get your truss engineering letter from the manufacturer first. Everything else on this list builds on top of that engineering, and skipping it is the most expensive mistake our team has seen on a barn project. For more on the roof assembly above the trusses, our roof rack overlanding guide covers similar load-rated decisions in a different context.