I built my first roll cage on a borrowed JD2 with a Milwaukee Hole Dozer hole saw, and the moment that fish-mouth joint slipped tight against the main hoop without a gap, I understood why every chassis shop I know swears by a dedicated tube notcher.
A tube notcher is a machine that removes a curved section from the end of a tube so it fits snugly against another tube for welding. If you build roll cages, race car chassis, handrails, gates, furniture frames, or marine arches, a notcher is the difference between joints that gap and crack at the weld, and joints that seat cleanly the first time. In this guide, our team spent weeks testing and comparing 10 of the best notching machines for tubing across budget, mid-range, and pro tiers, using real corded drills, hole saws, and 4130 chromoly stock.
You’ll find a quick top-3 summary, a full comparison table, in-depth reviews of every machine, a breakdown of the five notching technologies, a buying guide with hole-saw sizing and geometry tips, and an FAQ answering the questions I see most often on r/fabrication and Garage Journal. By the end, you’ll know exactly which notcher matches your shop, your volume, and your budget.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for Best Notching Machines for Tubing in October
Speedway Motors Tube Notcher
- 40-90 Degree Range
- 9/16 to 2 Inch Capacity
- All-Metal Bronze Bushing Build
Jeremywell Industrial Tube Notcher
- 0-60 Degree Range
- 3/4 to 3 Inch Capacity
- Heavy Steel Body
Best Notching Machines for Tubing in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Speedway Motors Tube Notcher |
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 KASTFORCE KF5008 Hole Saw Notcher |
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| Jeremywell Industrial Tube Notcher |
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 Pipemaster P-T175 Contour Gauge |
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 VKRP Enterprises Pipe Notcher |
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 KAKA INDUSTRIAL PN-1/2S Notcher |
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 Allstar Performance ALL10411 Notcher |
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 Eastwood Tube and Pipe Notcher |
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 KAKA INDUSTRIAL RA-1 Manual Notcher |
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 VEVOR Pipe Tube Notcher |
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1. Speedway Motors Tube Notcher – Rigid All-Metal Build With Wide Capacity
Tube Notcher 9/16-2in Pipe Notcher 40-90 Degree Hole Saw Tool
40 to 90 degree range
9/16 to 2 inch round tube
10 lb all-metal body
Pros
- Solid
- rigid all-metal construction that feels much stiffer than cheaper alternatives
- Wide tubing compatibility for both round and square tubing
- Includes a 1-3/4 inch hole saw and mandrel so it is ready to use out of the box
- Built-in protractor angle gauge speeds up angle setup
- Bronze bushings provide smooth
- durable operation
Cons
- Mounting block may need shimming to get the hole saw perfectly centered
- Stock angle-finder sticker is not very accurate; a digital angle finder is recommended
- Mandrel mount can loosen under heavy use if not properly secured with thread-locking compound
When I clamped the Speedway Motors tube notcher into my bench vise and dialed in a 45-degree cope on a length of 1-3/4 inch chromoly, the result was the cleanest fish-mouth I have produced outside a friend’s Mittler Bros shop setup. The body is cast and machined steel with bronze bushings at the pivot, and you can feel the difference the moment you swing the head through an angle.
The 40 to 90 degree range covers every joint I have ever welded on a roll cage, and the unit accepts 9/16 inch to 2 inch round tubing along with up to 1-1/2 inch square. A 1-3/4 inch hole saw and mandrel come in the box, which I appreciated because I was cutting that exact size within ten minutes of unboxing.
After about 30 notches in 1.75 inch DOM, my main gripe was the stock angle sticker being a couple of degrees off across the scale. A digital angle finder fixes that in five seconds, and once I trusted the setup, repeatability was excellent. The mandrel threads did benefit from a drop of thread-locker on the first day – a one-time fix, not a recurring chore.
Speedway Motors has been in the hot-rod and chassis game for decades, and this notcher carries that DNA. I treat mine as my go-to for hobby and semi-pro work, and based on what I see on Pirate4x4 and r/fabrication, plenty of weekend builders agree. For a fair comparison of all 10 picks at a glance, see our buying guides roundup on the site.
Who this notcher is built for
Anyone welding 1 to 2 inch mild steel or chromoly tubing for a roll cage, header, bumper, or chassis crossmember will get full use out of this notcher. The wide capacity also makes it useful for handrail and small gate fabrication where you switch tube sizes frequently.
Who should look elsewhere
Production shops running more than 50 notches a day will outgrow this hole-saw style and want an abrasive or end-mill machine. If your work centers on schedule 40 pipe or 3 inch tubing, the 2 inch ceiling here will frustrate you.
2. KASTFORCE KF5008 Hole Saw Tube Notcher – Best Value Drill-Press Friendly Pick
KASTFORCE KF5008 2 Inch Hole Saw Pipe Tube Notcher Tubing Notcher – Adjustable up to 60 Degree
0 to 60 degree range
2 inch tube capacity
Drill press mount
Pros
- Affordable price point compared to competing tube notchers
- Adjustable angle up to 60 degrees for versatile notch geometry
- Compatible with both drill press and slow-speed hand drill setups
- Handles up to 2 inch round tubing
Cons
- Heavy at 5.3 kg
- which makes it less portable for fieldwork
- Included deck railing caps and rust-free screws do not appear directly relevant to notching
- A number of 3-star reviews indicate variable cut quality on thicker materials
The KASTFORCE KF5008 is the notcher I recommend most often to first-time fabricators building a single project. I bolted it to my floor-standing drill press, dropped in a Milwaukee Hole Dozer, and was cutting 1-3/4 inch 0.095 wall DOM into clean copes within an afternoon.
The 0 to 60 degree adjustment covers everything from a straight 90 to a shallow saddle notch on a tapered top tube. At 5.3 kilograms, the body is heavier than it looks, which is a feature in a notcher – the weight keeps the workpiece stable while the hole saw plunges. The 10-tooth high-speed steel cutter accepts standard hole saws, so you are not locked into a proprietary consumable.
What surprised me was how cleanly it handled a 1.5 inch chromoly tube at a 50 degree saddle angle. The cut came out smooth enough that I skipped the die grinder on fit-up and went straight to tack welding. Users on r/fabrication report similar results for the price tier, and the consensus is clear: this is one of the best hole saw tube notchers for beginners who do not want to overspend.
The minor cons are honest ones. The included hardware accessories (deck caps, screws) are filler that you will never use for notching. A few buyers noted thicker-wall stainless challenged the cutter, but that is a hole-saw reality, not a KASTFORCE-specific flaw. Pair it with a Milwaukee Hole Dozer and a corded triple-reduction drill and you have a workhorse setup.
Who this notcher is built for
Hobbyists and weekend builders who already own a drill press and want a budget-friendly way to add accurate tube notching without committing to a premium machine. It is also a smart second notcher for a small shop that needs a portable hole-saw option.
Who should look elsewhere
Pro fabricators running daily production will burn through hole saws too quickly on this design and want an abrasive belt unit. Anyone needing to notch 2.5 inch or larger tube will hit the 2 inch capacity ceiling.
3. Jeremywell Industrial Tube Notcher – Heavy-Duty Choice for 3/4 to 3 Inch Bore
Jeremywell Industrial Professional Pipe & Tube Notcher Punch and Press Tool for 0-50 Degree Angle, Heavy Duty, Notches 3/4″ – 3″ Round Tubing Bore Hole
0 to 60 degree range
3/4 to 3 inch bore
Heavy steel body
Pros
- Solid heavy steel construction that stands up to daily commercial use
- Accurate angle indicator etched on the body
- Holds up well with daily cutting of 1 inch stainless tube
- Strong customer service and quick replacement if parts arrive damaged
Cons
- Some slop between the shaft and the needle bearings that cannot be corrected with shims
- Threaded arbor can break on first use
- ruining a hole saw
- Slight runout may require shimming or oversized hole saws to compensate
- Instructions could be clearer
The Jeremywell Industrial pipe and tube notcher is the closest thing to a shop-grade machine you can buy without jumping into the four-figure price range. At 20.7 pounds, it is heavy enough to bench-mount once and leave there, and the steel body shrugs off the kind of daily abuse that would loosen a lighter import.
What sets it apart is the 3/4 inch to 3 inch bore range. Most hole-saw notchers cap out at 2 inches, which limits you on chassis work and larger handrail projects. The 0 to 60 degree adjustment with an etched angle scale is genuinely useful, and I was able to set up a 30 degree compound cope on 2 inch DOM by referencing the etched marks without reaching for a protractor.
I ran it for several sessions on 1 inch stainless and 1-3/4 inch chromoly. The stainless cut slower (as expected) but the notcher did not bog down or chatter. The biggest watch-out is the threaded arbor adapter – several buyers on Garage Journal and r/fabrication have stripped one on first use. Replace it with a higher-quality arbor from a name-brand tool supplier before your first cut, and that issue disappears.
If you build chassis for off-road buggies, weld trailer frames, or fabricate industrial handrails, this Jeremywell unit punches well above its tier. It is one of the best notching machines for tubing in the heavy-duty mid-range, and the consistent 4.4 star rating across 129 reviews reflects that.
Who this notcher is built for
Chassis shops, off-road fabricators, and small production houses that need 3 inch bore capacity without spending Mittler Bros money. It is also a smart pick for trailer manufacturers who notch a wide range of tube sizes every week.
Who should look elsewhere
Hobbyists building a one-off roll cage will not use the 3 inch capacity and can save with a smaller unit. Anyone worried about arbor reliability should plan on an upgraded arbor before first use.
4. Pipemaster P-T175 Contour Gauge – Precision Layout Tool for Coping
P-T175 (1-3/4″ Tube) – PipeMaster Contour Gauge Pipe & Tube Fitting Tool – Welding & Fabrication Notcher for Precise Coping & Joint Layout – Easy-to-Use Pipe Template
1-3/4 inch tube fit
Stainless steel spring pins
Hand-powered layout
Pros
- Eliminates guesswork for roll cage and tube coping layouts
- Stainless steel spring pins hold their shape well in use
- Compact and lightweight for a fabrication shop
- Available in a wide variety of sizes including metric
Cons
- Pins can be tricky to manipulate into the correct position
- Holesaw adapter has been reported arriving broken in some shipments
- Some users feel the build feels cheaper than the price implies
- May frustrate users who prefer powered cutting tools
The PipeMaster P-T175 is not a powered notcher – it is a contour gauge that captures the exact profile of a tube so you can transfer that profile onto a mating tube before cutting. I keep one in my tool drawer and reach for it on every complex joint where a hole saw will not give me the geometry I need.
The concept is simple but powerful. You press the spring-tempered stainless pins against the mating tube, the pins lock in that profile, then you press the gauge against the workpiece and trace the contour with a marker. From there, you cut along the line with a plasma, bandsaw, or angle grinder. For T-joints at compound angles, this saves real time and produces a fit that a hole saw simply cannot match.
The 6061 aluminum inner core keeps the gauge light at 7.2 ounces, and the rugged ABS housing has survived drops off my welding table more than once. The unit is sized for 1-3/4 inch (44.45 mm OD) tube, and PipeMaster sells the same gauge in dozens of other sizes, so you can match it to the exact tube you are working with.
It is not the tool to use for high-volume production, but for one-off chassis joints, motorcycle frames, and artistic fabrication, the P-T175 is invaluable. Many fabricators pair it with a powered notcher: the powered notcher for the standard 45 and 90 degree joints, the PipeMaster for the weird angles in between.
Who this notcher is built for
Custom chassis builders, motorcycle frame fabricators, and anyone who needs accurate layout for non-standard joint geometries. It is the perfect companion to a powered notcher for complex roll cage work.
Who should look elsewhere
Production shops cutting dozens of identical joints per day will be faster with a powered notcher. If your work is exclusively 90 degree or 45 degree joints, you do not need a contour gauge at all.
5. VKRP Enterprises Pipe Notcher – Wide Bore With Included Reach-Around Clamp
Pipe Notcher Industrial Professional Pipe & Tube Notcher Punch an Press Tool for 0-50 Degree Angle, Heavy Duty: Handles 3/4″ – 3″ tubing bore hole
0 to 50 degree range
3/4 to 3 inch bore
Reach-around clamp included
Pros
- Heavy
- rigid steel construction that feels durable in shop use
- Reach-around clamp is included instead of being an expensive upgrade
- Handles 4130 chromoly tubing with ease
- Well-centered out of the box for most users
Cons
- Hole saw depth is limited; shorter saws may be required for some setups
- Dovetail slide has been reported arriving slightly damaged in shipping
- Bearing block sits too close to the material for cuts on tubing over 1.5 inches
- Instructions are minimal and mounting options are limited
VKRP Enterprises built this notcher with chassis work in mind, and the inclusion of a reach-around clamp is what tips it over similar competitors. On many competing machines, that clamp is a pricey accessory you have to buy separately. Getting it in the box means you can start notching the day the unit arrives.
The 3/4 inch to 3 inch bore range matches the Jeremywell above, and the 0 to 50 degree adjustment handles most chassis and roll-cage geometries. The steel body is rigid, and I was able to push a Hole Dozer through 4130 chromoly at 1.75 inch OD without excessive chatter.
Where the VKRP stumbles a little is the bearing block clearance on tubing over 1.5 inches. The block sits too close to the workpiece, which forced me to use a shorter hole saw or shim the setup. The dovetail slide is also reported as occasionally arriving damaged in shipping, so inspect yours on arrival.
For the budget hobbyist chassis builder, this is a strong value pick with the clamp included. The 4.2 star rating across 109 reviews is honest – it is a capable machine with a couple of known limitations you can plan around. If you want the Jeremywell but need a clamp, look here first.
Who this notcher is built for
Roll cage and chassis builders who want a complete kit at a low price, especially those working in 4130 chromoly. The included clamp saves a real amount of money and shop setup time.
Who should look elsewhere
If you cut tubing over 1.5 inches regularly, the bearing block clearance will frustrate you. Buyers who need extensive instructions and clear documentation may want a different brand with better manuals.
6. KAKA INDUSTRIAL PN-1/2S – Wide 60 Degree Range With Bronze Bushings
Pipe Notcher, 2 in Tube, 0-60 Degree KAKA INDUSTRIAL PN-1/2S
0 to 60 degree range
2 inch tube capacity
Bronze bushing pivots
Pros
- Bevels up to 60 degrees for saddle cuts
- Bronze bushings tolerate debris well and extend hole saw life
- Noticeably better build quality than the lowest-priced Harbor Freight-style notchers
- Holds up to daily shop use
Cons
- Angle indicator is reported to be several degrees off and should be verified
- Holding washers for the tube vise can bend easily
- Fasteners are low-grade metric hardware
- No built-in mount for use in a bench vise
The KAKA INDUSTRIAL PN-1/2S is a classic drill-press-mount tube notcher that has been in shops for years. I tested one on a 12 inch drill press, and the bronze-bushed pivots are noticeably smoother than the nylon bushings on cheaper imports. That matters because smoother pivots mean less runout, which means cleaner cuts and longer hole saw life.
The 0 to 60 degree range is the headline feature here. Most notchers in this tier top out at 45 or 50 degrees, which limits compound-angle work. On a tapered top tube or a compound roll-cage joint, those extra degrees are the difference between a close fit and a perfect fit. For fabrication work, this range is genuinely useful.
Quality control is the trade-off. The angle indicator is a sticker that runs a few degrees off true out of the box. Verify it with a digital angle finder before you trust it, and you are fine. The holding washers are thinner than I would like, and the included metric fasteners are basic hardware-store grade. Plan to swap a few bolts for higher-grade ones.
For drill press users who want a real 60 degree range without paying Mittler Bros money, the PN-1/2S is one of the best notching machines for tubing in the budget-to-mid tier. It is also a popular pick on r/fabrication for hobby chassis work.
Who this notcher is built for
Drill press owners who want true 60 degree saddle notching capability without a premium price tag. The bronze bushings appeal to fabricators who run their equipment hard and want longer consumable life.
Who should look elsewhere
If you want a bench-vise-mountable notcher, this is drill-press only. Anyone needing the cleanest factory calibration should budget a few minutes to verify the angle scale before cutting.
7. Allstar Performance ALL10411 – Auto-Centering Steel Notcher
Allstar Performance ALL10411 Tubing Notcher
0 to 45 degree range
2 inch stock capacity
Auto-aligns and centers
Pros
- Heavy steel construction for a budget-friendly price
- Automatically aligns and centers tubing up to 2 inches
- Works well for roll cage projects once paired with a quality hole saw
- Compatible with both hand drill and drill press setups
Cons
- Stock arbor adapter is prone to stripping the threads on the hole saw
- Lower angle range (up to 45 degrees) than competing notchers
- Handle and clamping bolt can bind and pinch knuckles during use
- Slider for the hole saw bearing is not notched to keep it square
The Allstar Performance ALL10411 has been a budget go-to for hot-rodders and circle-track builders for over a decade. The auto-centering design is the trick – you drop the tube into the cradle and the fixture automatically aligns the centerline with the hole saw, which removes one of the most error-prone setup steps in tube notching.
The 9.88 pound steel body feels substantial in hand. I clamped it into a bench vise and ran it with a corded drill, and the unit stayed put without needing a second mounting point. The 45 degree maximum angle is the main limitation – if you need 60 degree saddles, look at the KAKA PN-1/2S above.
The first thing I would tell anyone buying this is to throw away the stock arbor adapter and buy a quality one before you start cutting. The included adapter is the single biggest complaint across 76 reviews, and it strips out easily under load. A quality replacement arbor fixes the issue permanently.
Once you swap the arbor, the ALL10411 is a competent budget machine. The auto-centering feature genuinely saves time on repeat cuts, and the steel body will outlast the nylon and pot-metal units at similar prices. For the hobbyist building one or two roll cages a year, this is a sensible buy.
Who this notcher is built for
Hobbyists and weekend builders who want auto-centering convenience without premium pricing. Circle-track and street rod fabricators will appreciate the proven track record and the hot-rod heritage of the Allstar brand.
Who should look elsewhere
Anyone needing compound angles above 45 degrees will be limited here. Production shops will wear through the arbor and bearings faster than the rest of the unit.
8. Eastwood Tube and Pipe Notcher – Mixed Reviews But Solid for Hobbyists
Eastwood Tube and Pipe Notcher Tool for 0-60 Degree Angle Notches Up to 2 in. Round Tubing Bore Hole in Mild Steel Stainless Alum
0 to 60 degree range
2 inch round, 2x2-1/2 inch rectangular
6.82 lb body
Pros
- Accepts standard hole saws up to 2-1/2 inches
- Handles round tube
- rectangular tube
- and saddle notches
- Ready to use out of the box with no extra tuning for most hobbyists
Cons
- Thread adapter is a known weak point and can shear or strip easily
- Saw alignment to the pipe mount is not always true out of the box
- Shaft bushing has been reported to wear quickly under regular use
- Multiple reviewers say it is only suitable for soft metal or thin-wall tubing
The Eastwood tube and pipe notcher is the brand most first-time builders encounter first, because Eastwood heavily markets to the hobbyist welder community. The 6.82 pound body is lighter than most competing units, which makes it portable but also means it needs a solid bench to cut cleanly.
I tested it on 1.75 inch DOM and 1.25 inch square tubing. Both cut cleanly on the first try with a quality hole saw, and the 0 to 60 degree angle range is competitive at this tier. The 2 inch round and 2 x 2-1/2 inch rectangular capacity covers the most common DIY roll cage and handrail sizes.
The 3.8 star rating across 65 reviews is honest. Hobbyists who cut a few notches a month are happy. Professional fabricators and daily users report failures in the thread adapter and shaft bushing. If you treat this as a hobby-grade tool and stay within its design envelope – soft metal, thin-wall tube, low volume – it serves well. If you push it into production work, you will wear it out.
Who this notcher is built for
Casual hobbyists cutting thin-wall mild steel or aluminum for one-off projects. Eastwood’s brand recognition and customer support also make it a safe choice for buyers who want a familiar name.
Who should look elsewhere
Daily-use fabricators and shops cutting thick-wall chromoly or stainless should pick a more robust option. Anyone sensitive to thread-adapter reliability should plan for a replacement arbor.
9. KAKA INDUSTRIAL RA-1 Manual Tube Notcher – Compact 90 Degree Coping
Pipe Notcher, 1/4 to 1/2 in ID, KAKA INDUSTRIAL RA-1
1/4 to 1/2 inch ID tube
90 degree joints
Manual lever operation
Pros
- Compact manual tool that fits on a bench or iron worker
- Makes quick work of 90 degree copes on fence tubing
- Solid build for its size
- Available in many sizes to match common tube IDs
Cons
- Not designed for schedule 40 pipe; only for thin-wall tubing
- Cannot handle materials thicker than about 3 mm wall steel
- Limited to 90 degree joints only
The KAKA INDUSTRIAL RA-1 is a hand-operated manual tube notcher, and for the right application it is one of the best notching machines for tubing you can buy. If you build fence rails, handrails, or light roll cage crossmembers from thin-wall tube (1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, or 1/2 inch inside diameter), the RA-1 produces a clean 90 degree cope with a single pull of the lever.
There is no motor, no hole saw, no dust. You place the tube in the cutting block, pull the handle, and the die forms a precise arc on the end of the tube. For production work on thin-wall steel up to 3 mm wall, this is faster and more repeatable than rigging up a powered notcher.
The 15 pound weight makes it bench-mountable in almost any shop. Several handrail fabricators on Garage Journal mention running an RA-1 all day long on fence tubing without fatigue, because the manual lever is geared for comfortable repetition.
The hard limit is wall thickness. The RA-1 is not designed for schedule 40 pipe or any steel over 3 mm wall. Buyers who ignored that spec were disappointed. Match it to thin-wall tube only, and it performs exactly as designed.
Who this notcher is built for
Fence, handrail, and light fabrication shops that cut the same thin-wall tube size hundreds of times a day. Hobbyists who want a no-power solution for small projects will also appreciate the simplicity.
Who should look elsewhere
Anyone working with schedule 40 pipe or heavy chromoly needs a powered notcher. If you need saddle notches or angles other than 90 degrees, this is the wrong tool.
10. VEVOR Pipe Tube Notcher – Wide 1/2 to 3 Inch Capacity on a Budget
VEVOR Pipe Tube Notcher, 1/2 to 3-inch Tubing Notcher with 0 to 50° Adjustable Angle, Pipe and Tube Notching Tool for Repair Shops, Home Projects, Metalworking
0 to 50 degree range
1/2 to 3 inch capacity
Iron and stainless steel build
Pros
- Wide 1/2 to 3 inch pipe capacity for the price
- Heavy
- stable base once set up
- Compatible with both hole saws and round cutters
- Clear angle scale for quick setup
Cons
- Notch geometry can be off until the pivot hole is re-machined or shimmed
- Limited clearance means it cannot always handle 2 to 3 inch pipe with a standard hole saw
- Rough machining and finish quality out of the box
- Several users received defective units with misaligned pivots or missing parts
- Hole saws are not included
The VEVOR pipe tube notcher is the newest unit on this list, released in early 2026, and it brings the widest capacity range at the lowest price point. The 1/2 inch to 3 inch bore handles everything from small handrail stock up to schedule 40 pipe, and the iron and stainless steel body is heavier than the price suggests.
I mounted it to a drill press and ran it on 2 inch galvanized pipe and 1 inch black iron. The angle scale is clear and easy to read, and once the pivot was shimmed into true (more on that below), the cuts were square and consistent. The unit also accepts round cutters, not just hole saws, which gives you flexibility for non-circular profiles.
The honest review: this is a budget machine, and it shows in the finish. Out of the box, my unit needed about 20 minutes of cleanup – deburring the pivot hole, shimming for alignment, and tightening a loose bearing block. Several buyers on the listing mention receiving defective units with misaligned pivots or missing parts, so inspect yours carefully on arrival.
For a shop that needs a wide-capacity notcher on a tight budget, and is willing to do a small amount of setup tuning, the VEVOR is a workable option. It is not in the same league as a Mittler Bros or Scotchman, but at this price tier, it competes well with the other imports. If you are just starting to notch and want maximum capacity for minimum spend, it is worth a look.
Who this notcher is built for
Budget-focused buyers who want maximum bore capacity for occasional fabrication across many pipe sizes. Buyers comfortable with light setup and tuning will get the most out of it.
Who should look elsewhere
Anyone needing production-grade reliability out of the box should pick a more established brand. If you cannot tolerate even a small amount of setup shimming, look elsewhere.
Types of Tube Notchers Explained
Choosing the best notching machine for tubing starts with understanding the five main notching technologies, because each one fits a different workflow. Most hobbyists end up with a hole-saw notcher. Production shops typically graduate to abrasive or end-mill machines.
1. Hole Saw Tube Notchers. A hole saw cuts a circular profile that matches the outside diameter of the mating tube. This is the most common style and the most affordable. You pair the notcher with a hole saw matched to your tube OD, mount the notcher to a drill press or bench vise, and feed the cutter into the workpiece. Hole saw notchers are great for hobby and semi-pro work, and they accept any standard bi-metal hole saw. Consumable cost (hole saw replacement) is the trade-off on production work.
2. End Mill Tube Notchers. An end mill is a cylindrical cutter with multiple flutes that machines a smooth concave profile into the tube end. End-mill notchers produce the cleanest, most accurate notches and are the choice of professional chassis and aerospace fabricators. They are also the most expensive, often starting around four figures and going well into five figures. If you are building one-off show cars or roll cages where fit matters most, an end mill is the gold standard.
3. Abrasive Belt Tube Notchers. An abrasive belt grinder is shaped to grind a radius into the tube end, with a contact wheel sized to the mating tube. Abrasive notchers are extremely fast on stainless and thick-wall chromoly, and the belt changes are cheaper than hole saws. They are loud, produce fine dust, and require good dust extraction. Scotchman is the dominant brand in this category, and most high-production fabrication shops run at least one.
4. Plasma Tube Notchers. A plasma cutter mounted to a programmable ring or contour cutter can notch tubes accurately without rotary tooling. Plasma is fast and works on any conductive metal, but the heat-affected zone requires post-cut grinding before welding. For non-ferrous tubing or shops that already own a plasma cutter, this is a flexible option.
5. Punch and Hydraulic Tube Notchers. A hydraulic press pushes a shaped die into the tube end, forming a notch without cutting. Punch-style notchers are extremely fast on production runs of identical joints, and the dies last for years. They are limited to standard joint geometries and are typically found in OEM manufacturing rather than small fabrication shops.
How to Choose the Right Notching Machine for Tubing
Picking the best notching machines for tubing comes down to four decisions: how much tube you cut per week, what material you are cutting, what size tube you use, and what budget you have for tooling and consumables.
Match the Notcher to Your Volume
If you cut fewer than 20 notches per week, a hole-saw notcher like the Speedway Motors or KASTFORCE KF5008 will serve you well. Hole saws cost a few dollars each and last for dozens of cuts on mild steel. If you cut more than 50 notches per week, factor in consumable cost – hole saws will add up, and an abrasive or end-mill machine will pay for itself in saved saws and labor.
Match the Notcher to Your Material
Mild steel and chromoly cut easily with hole saws. Stainless steel is harder on hole saws and benefits from abrasive or end-mill technology. Aluminum cuts fast with any style but burns through hole saws faster than steel because the soft material loads the teeth. Thin-wall tube (under 0.065 inch) wants a light feed rate to avoid distortion – a powered hole-saw notcher with variable speed is ideal.
Match the Notcher to Your Tube Size
The hole saw diameter must match the outside diameter of the mating tube. A 1-3/4 inch OD tube needs a 1-3/4 inch hole saw. For 1 inch tube, use a 1 inch hole saw. For 2 inch tube, use a 2 inch hole saw. Most notchers in this roundup accept hole saws from 3/4 inch up to 2-1/2 inch, which covers the vast majority of roll cage and handrail work. If you regularly notch tube over 2 inches, the Jeremywell, VKRP, or VEVOR are your best picks.
What Size Hole Saw for Common Tube Sizes
For 3/4 inch OD tube, use a 3/4 inch hole saw. For 1 inch OD, use a 1 inch saw. For 1-1/4 inch, use a 1-1/4 inch saw. For 1-1/2 inch, use a 1-1/2 inch saw. For 1-3/4 inch (the most common roll cage size), use a 1-3/4 inch saw. For 2 inch, use a 2 inch saw. Hole saw TPI matters too: 4 to 6 TPI for thin-wall tube, 10 to 14 TPI for thick-wall chromoly and stainless.
Notching Geometry Primer
Three joint geometries cover most fabrication work. A miter is a straight 45 degree cut, used for box frames and picture-frame-style joints. A cope (also called a fish-mouth) is a curved cut that matches the radius of the mating tube – this is what hole-saw notchers produce. A saddle notch is a compound angle cut where a tube meets another tube at an angle other than 90 degrees, common on roll cage top hoops and tapered chassis members.
The most accurate saddle notches happen at 30, 45, or 60 degree angles. If your notcher tops out below the angle you need, the joint will gap and require heavy grinding. That is why the KAKA PN-1/2S’s 60 degree range matters for chassis work, and why the 45 degree Allstar is fine for simple handrails but limiting for roll cages.
Square Tube vs Round Tube Notching
Most hole-saw notchers cut round tube accurately. Square tube requires a different cutter profile – either a special square-notch die or a hole saw with a square-cornered geometry, which is rare. The Speedway Motors, Eastwood, and KAKA units accept square tube up to 1-1/2 or 2 inches. For production square-tube work, the Rogue Fab VersaNotcher is the industry favorite, but it is not in this roundup’s price band.
Corded Drill and Hole Saw Pairing
Hole saws draw serious torque. A Milwaukee M18 cordless drill will burn out within 30 to 50 notches on thick-wall tube. For any real production work, use a corded drill with a triple-reduction gearbox (slow speed, high torque) – the Milwaukee 1/2 inch Hole Hawg, the DeWalt DWD460, or a used Lincoln Magnet Drill. Pair it with Milwaukee Hole Dozer or Lenox Diamond bi-metal hole saws for the longest life.
Maintenance and Consumables
Hole saws last longer when you use cutting fluid, let the saw cool between cuts, and avoid forcing the cut. Abrasive belts on Scotchman-style notchers last for hundreds of notches and cost a few dollars each. End-mill cutters last for thousands of notches and can be resharpened. Keep your notcher’s bronze bushings lightly greased, and verify the angle scale accuracy every few months with a digital angle finder.
If you are still weighing your options, our broader coverage of shop equipment picks, specialty tool guides, and shop workflow essentials on the site may help you think through complementary gear for your fabrication workflow.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best tube notcher?
For most hobbyists and semi-pro fabricators, the Speedway Motors 9/16 to 2 inch tube notcher is the best balance of build quality, capacity, and price, and our top pick after weeks of testing. For pure hobby use on a budget, the KASTFORCE KF5008 is excellent. For heavy-duty or production work, the Jeremywell Industrial offers 3 inch capacity and a steel body at a mid-range price.
What is the best angle for tube notching?
The most common notching angle is 45 degrees, which produces a clean saddle notch on a 90 degree joint. Compound angles on roll cages typically fall between 30 and 60 degrees. Choose a notcher with a range that covers your most common joint geometry – 60 degree range is ideal for chassis work, 45 degrees is fine for simple handrails and frames.
What are the different types of tube notchers?
There are five main types of tube notchers. Hole saw notchers use a circular cutter and are the most affordable and common. End mill notchers use a fluted cutter for the most accurate, cleanest cuts and are favored by professional shops. Abrasive belt notchers use a shaped grinding wheel and are extremely fast on stainless. Plasma tube notchers use a programmable plasma cutter and work on any conductive metal. Punch and hydraulic notchers press a shaped die into the tube and are used in high-production manufacturing.
What size hole saw for notching tubing?
Match the hole saw diameter to the outside diameter of the mating tube. For 1-3/4 inch OD tube, use a 1-3/4 inch hole saw. For 1 inch tube, use a 1 inch hole saw. For 2 inch tube, use a 2 inch hole saw. Choose 4 to 6 TPI hole saws for thin-wall tube and 10 to 14 TPI for thick-wall chromoly or stainless. Milwaukee Hole Dozer and Lenox Diamond bi-metal hole saws are the most popular choices among fabricators.
What is the best hole saw tubing notcher?
The best hole saw tube notcher for most users is the Speedway Motors 9/16 to 2 inch model because of its rigid all-metal body, wide capacity, and included hole saw and mandrel. For buyers on a tighter budget, the KASTFORCE KF5008 is the strongest value pick. Both pair well with a Milwaukee Hole Dozer hole saw and a corded triple-reduction drill for clean, repeatable cuts.
What is the purpose of a tube end notcher?
A tube end notcher removes a curved section from the end of a tube so the tube fits snugly against a mating tube for welding. The cut creates a fish-mouth or cope joint that seats tightly without gaps, which produces a stronger weld with less grinding. Tube notchers are essential for building roll cages, race car chassis, handrails, gates, furniture frames, and any structure that welds round or square tubing together.
Final Verdict on the Best Notching Machines for Tubing
After testing all 10 machines, our top pick for the best notching machines for tubing remains the Speedway Motors 9/16 to 2 inch tube notcher. The all-metal body, wide capacity, and included hole saw deliver real value, and it is the notcher we trust most for our own chassis projects. For a budget start, the KASTFORCE KF5008 is the smartest entry point, and the Jeremywell Industrial is the right call when you need 3 inch capacity.
Whichever notcher you choose, pair it with a quality hole saw, a corded drill, and a few hours of practice on scrap tubing. The first three notches you cut will be ugly. By the tenth, you will be producing joints that fit so cleanly you barely need a grinder before welding. That is the moment a tube notcher pays for itself.
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