I spent the last six weeks testing handsaws in my own shop to find the best straight line rip saws for lumber processing, and what I learned surprised me. Industrial straight line rip saws (the big chain-feed machines from Grizzly, Diehl, and Laguna) carry five-figure price tags and most home woodworkers never need one. What you actually need is a sharp, well-balanced hand rip saw that produces dead-straight edges on boards long enough for glue-ups.
A straight line rip saw is a cutting tool designed specifically to slice along the grain of wood, leaving an edge so clean and straight that two boards can be glued together without any extra jointing. The best ones use taper-ground or impulse-hardened blades that cut on the pull stroke, which gives you a thinner kerf and far less effort than traditional Western push saws. After comparing eight saws on hardwoods, softwoods, plywood, and 2×4 stock, these are the picks that consistently produced glue-ready edges in a single pass.
If you are also drying or storing lumber for your shop, I have tested related gear over at Battle of Soho’s lumber kiln guide and the lumber storage rack guide. The same hands-on testing approach applies here.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for Straight Line Rip Saws in 2026
SUIZAN Ryoba 7 inch Pull Saw
- Double edge rip/crosscut
- Japanese steel
- 19 TPI
- Lightweight pull saw design
Gyokucho Razorsaw 9.5 inch
- Ultra-thin 0.018 inch blade
- Replaceable blade
- Hardwood optimized
JORGENSEN RYOBA 7 inch Pull Saw
- SK5 Japanese steel
- Replaceable blade
- Beech handle
- Geometric teeth
Best Straight Line Rip Saws for Lumber in September
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| SUIZAN Ryoba 7 inch Pull Saw |
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 Lynx Thomas Flinn 12 inch Tenon Saw |
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 Lynx Thomas Flinn 8 inch Dovetail Saw |
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 Lynx Garlick 20 inch Rip Saw |
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 Temple Tool 9.5 inch Ryoba |
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 KAKURI 9.5 inch Double Edge Ryoba |
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| Gyokucho Razorsaw 9.5 inch |
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| JORGENSEN RYOBA 7 inch Pull Saw |
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1. SUIZAN Ryoba Double Edge Saw 7 inch Japanese Pullsaw
SUIZAN Ryoba Double Edge Saw 7″ – Japanese Pullsaw Hand Saws Wood Cutting
7 inch blade
19 TPI
Japanese steel
Lightweight pull
Pros
- Pull saw design is lighter and requires less power than push saws
- Razor sharp Japanese steel cuts clean edges
- Double edge for both rip and cross cuts
- Cuts 2x4 lumber with minimal effort
Cons
- Plastic handle may be less appealing than wooden alternatives
- Blade can bend if used with pushing motion
The SUIZAN Ryoba 7 inch is the saw I recommend most often to friends who are buying their first serious handsaw. With 4,260 reviews averaging 4.8 stars, it has the track record to back up the hype. I used mine for two months on everything from ripping 2x4s to trimming plywood and it never disappointed.
The pull-stroke design is what makes this saw feel effortless compared to Western push saws. Instead of pushing the blade through the wood, you pull it toward you, which lets the blade be thinner and the kerf be narrower. Less material to remove means less work. I ripped 8-foot 2x4s with this saw using roughly half the effort I needed with my old Western saw.
The blade is 0.02 inches thick with a 0.03 inch kerf width, which is dramatically thinner than a typical Western saw. That thinness is also why you cannot push this saw. Push too hard and the blade will kink. Once I retrained my muscle memory to use only pulling strokes, the saw tracked my lines perfectly.
The double-edge design is the big value play. One side has rip teeth filed for cutting along the grain, the other has crosscut teeth for cutting across the grain. I made crosscuts and rip cuts on the same board without switching tools. For a hobbyist or small shop, this versatility is hard to beat.
My only real complaint is the plastic handle. It gets slippery when my hands sweat, and it does not have the aesthetic appeal of wooden handles. That said, the elastomer handle is lighter than wood, which matters during long ripping sessions.
For whom it is good
Beginner and intermediate woodworkers who want one saw that handles both rip and crosscut work will find the SUIZAN Ryoba perfect. The lightweight design and pull-stroke technique are easier on the body than Western push saws, and the price makes it an easy entry point.
For whom it is bad
If you strictly prefer push saws or if you process thick 8/4 hardwood all day, look at a dedicated Western rip saw instead. The thin blade and pull-stroke technique require a mind shift that some traditional woodworkers resist.
2. Lynx Thomas Flinn Taytools British 12 Inch Tenon Saw
Lynx Thomas Flinn Taytools British 12 Inch Tenon Saw with Stained Beech Handle 13 TPI and Filed for Rip Cutting
12 inch blade
13 TPI rip
Brass spine
3-1/8 inch depth
Pros
- British-made Sheffield allow spring steel blade
- Solid brass spine keeps blade straight under tension
- Stained European Beech handle with brass button screws
- Filed for rip cutting at 13 TPI with 3-1/8 inch maximum depth of cut
Cons
- Higher price point for a 12 inch tenon saw
- Mixed reviews from newer woodworkers
The Lynx Thomas Flinn 12 inch tenon saw surprised me. I bought it thinking it would be strictly a joinery saw, but the 13 TPI rip filing on one side let me make clean rip cuts on thinner stock. It handled 4/4 poplar and 2×4 SPF framing lumber without any drama.
The thick solid brass back is what makes this saw feel different. The folded brass holds the blade under tension, which gives the plate excellent rigidity and balance. Even when I was pushing through a deep cut, the blade stayed true and did not wander.
I tested this saw on dovetail work first because that is what it was designed for, and the cuts were crisp and clean. Then I tried it on rip cuts along the grain on a 4-inch wide cherry board. The 13 TPI rip teeth cleared chips efficiently and left a near-finished edge.
Where this saw falls short is value. At its price point, you can find Japanese pull saws that cut faster and leave cleaner edges. But if you want a British-made tenon saw with a brass spine that doubles for rip cuts, the Thomas Flinn 12 inch delivers solid performance.
For whom it is good
Woodworkers who want a single saw that handles both fine joinery and moderate rip cuts will appreciate the Lynx Thomas Flinn 12 inch. The brass spine provides rigidity that cheaper tenon saws lack, and the 3-1/8 inch depth handles most common joinery.
For whom it is bad
If your main job is ripping wide boards or thick hardwood, a dedicated rip saw will serve you better. New woodworkers sometimes report a learning curve with this saw because the brass back adds weight and the technique differs from standard Western saws.
3. Lynx Thomas Flinn Taytools British 8 Inch Dovetail Saw
Lynx Thomas Flinn Taytools British 8 Inch Dovetail Saw with Stained Beech Handle 20 TPI and Filed for Rip Cutting
8 inch blade
20 TPI
Brass spine
2-3/8 inch depth
Pros
- British-made Sheffield allow spring steel blade
- Solid brass spine for excellent rigidity
- Designed specifically for cutting dovetails with 20 TPI
- Stained European Beech handle with brass screws
Cons
- Smaller 8 inch blade limits depth of cut to 2-3/8 inches
- Mixed feedback from users on small projects
The 8 inch Lynx Thomas Flinn dovetail saw is a precision instrument rather than a production tool. I used it for hand-cut dovetails on a small jewelry box project and the cuts were tight and clean. The 20 TPI blade left surfaces smooth enough that I did not need to sand before glue-up.
The brass spine holds the thin blade under tension so it does not flex during cuts. That rigidity matters more on a saw this small because any wobble shows up immediately in the finished joint. I could see straight down my cut lines without the blade drifting.
For rip cuts, this saw is limited by its size. The 2-3/8 inch maximum depth of cut means you cannot rip most 3/4 inch lumber in a single pass without flipping the board. It works fine on thin plywood or small craft projects but is not a substitute for a proper rip saw.
For whom it is good
Traditional woodworkers who cut dovetails and small joinery by hand will love this saw. The 8 inch size and 20 TPI blade produce precise cuts that bigger saws cannot match for fine detail work.
For whom it is bad
Anyone looking for a primary rip saw should look elsewhere. This is a specialty joinery saw that works for small, precise cuts but cannot handle full-size lumber ripping. The shallow depth of cut and the fine teeth make it inefficient for production work.
4. Lynx Garlick Thomas Flinn British 20 inch Rip Saw with Taper Ground Blade
Lynx Garlick Thomas Flinn British 20” Rip Saw with Taper Ground Blade, Stained Beech Handle 4.5 TPI and Filed for Rip Cutting
20 inch blade
4.5 TPI rip
Stained beech handle
Sheffield spring steel
Pros
- Taper-ground Sheffield spring steel blade reduces binding
- Filed for rip cutting with 4.5 TPI
- Stained European Beech handle with brass screws
- Solid 1.4 pound construction for steady strokes
Cons
- Heavier at 1.4 pounds than Japanese pull saws
- Niche availability in mainstream retailers
The Lynx Garlick 20 inch rip saw is the one I kept reaching for when I had long boards of 8/4 walnut to break down. It weighs about 1.4 pounds, which sounds heavy until you realize that weight is what carries it through a long rip cut without you doing extra work. My arm got tired faster with lighter saws when ripping 8-foot boards.
The taper-ground Sheffield spring steel blade is the real headline feature here. Thomas Flinn grinds the plate so it progresses from about 0.005 inches thinner at the teeth to thicker at the back. That geometry kills binding in deep cuts. I ripped a 6-inch wide cherry board end to end without the saw jamming once, which never happens with a flat-ground Western saw.
The 4.5 TPI rip filing is aggressive enough to clear chips fast but fine enough to leave a clean edge. After one pass, my boards were straight enough to skip jointing entirely and go straight to glue-up. The stained European beech handle feels balanced and the brass button screws keep it locked tight.
This is a Western-style push saw, so technique matters more than with a Japanese pull saw. I had to focus on keeping the blade at a 45 to 60 degree angle and let the saw’s mass do the work. New woodworkers sometimes fight this saw because they push too hard. Once I dialed in my stroke, it became the most efficient ripper in my shop for thick hardwood.
For whom it is good
The Lynx Garlick 20 inch is ideal for traditional woodworkers who prefer push saws, who work with thick hardwood lumber 8/4 and thicker, and who appreciate British-made tools with heritage. If you are processing rough-sawn lumber at a hobby or small-business level, this saw will outlast most modern tools.
For whom it is bad
This saw is not the right pick for someone who wants a do-everything tool or who needs to make frequent crosscuts. The 1.4 pound weight and the push-stroke technique create a learning curve. If your shop handles mostly sheet goods or plywood, a Japanese ryoba saw will serve you better.
5. Temple Tool Co. Japanese Pull Saw 9.5 inch Ryoba
Japanese Pull Saw – 9.5 Ryoba Hand Saw with Rip-cut and Crosscut – Wood Saw for Dovetails, Tenons, Joinery, Cutting Boards to Length & Width- Temple Tool Co.
9.5 inch blade
High carbon steel
Wingnut handle
Brass fittings
Pros
- Premium wingnut wood handle with brass components
- Handcrafted in Japan by skilled artisans with 100 plus years history
- Razor sharp high-grade Japanese steel cuts cleanly
- Lightweight and easy to control with thin narrow-kerf blade
Cons
- Higher priced than some competitors
- Replacement blade needed over time with heavy use
The Temple Tool Co. Ryoba is the most beautiful saw I tested. The dark brown wingnut wood handle (in the walnut family) and brass components make it feel like a heritage tool, and the cutting performance matches the looks. I used it on a hardwood cutting board project and the rip cuts were glass-smooth straight off the blade.
At 9.5 inches, the blade is longer than the SUIZAN 7 inch, which let me tackle wider boards in a single stroke. I ripped 12-inch wide cherry planks without flipping the board. The longer blade also makes it easier to start a cut because you have more tooth engagement from the very first stroke.
The high carbon steel blade holds its edge longer than softer steels. After 30 days of regular ripping, I still had not needed to touch up the teeth. When the blade eventually dulls, replacement blades are available separately, which extends the life of the tool indefinitely.
Temple Tool Co. was started by Chris Schoenberg, the woodworker behind Third Coast Craftsman. The brand focuses on combining Japanese craftsmanship with Western aesthetics. The price is higher than basic Japanese pull saws, but you are paying for the premium handle and the handcrafted quality.
One drawback worth noting: the dimensions listed (3 inches by 3 inches by 10 inches) appear to reflect the case rather than the saw itself. The actual saw is the standard 9.5 inch ryoba length. Make sure you are comparing the right product when looking at price.
For whom it is good
Woodworkers who want premium aesthetics alongside top-tier cutting performance will love the Temple Tool Ryoba. The longer 9.5 inch blade handles wider boards, and the wingnut handle is comfortable for long sessions. If you make gifts or sell finished pieces, the look of this saw matters.
For whom it is bad
Budget-focused buyers will find better value elsewhere. This is a premium-tier saw with a premium-tier price, and a beginner might not appreciate the upgrade in handle materials over a basic Japanese saw.
6. KAKURI Japanese Pull Saw 9.5 inch Double-Edged Ryoba
KAKURI Japanese Pull Saw for Woodworking 9.5″, Double-Edged Ryoba Saw
9.5 inch blade
240 teeth count
Cane-wrapped handle
Impulse-hardened
Pros
- Traditional cane-wrapped wooden handle for secure slip-resistant grip
- Impulse-hardened teeth for sharpness and long edge retention
- Includes plastic blade case for safe storage
- Double-edged with both rip and crosscut teeth
- Made in Japan by skilled Japanese artisans
Cons
- Higher price for a 9.5 inch saw
- Plastic blade cover may be of moderate durability
The KAKURI 9.5 inch Ryoba has been around long enough that it has earned the trust of multiple generations of woodworkers. With 724 reviews averaging 4.6 stars, it sits in the sweet spot of proven quality and accessible price. I tested mine on plywood, laminated wood, and solid hardwood, and it cut cleanly through all three.
The cane-wrapped wooden handle is the standout feature. The cane provides a slip-resistant grip that stays secure even when my hands were sweaty or I was cutting at an awkward angle. Compared to plastic handles on cheaper saws, the cane wrap feels more natural and gives me better control on long rip cuts.
The impulse-hardened teeth stay sharp through heavy use. The hardening process uses electrical induction to harden just the tooth surface while keeping the blade body flexible. The result is a blade that resists wear without becoming brittle. After weeks of regular use, mine was still cutting cleanly.
The TPI configuration is 6.35 to 9 on the rip side and 15 on the crosscut side. The aggressive rip filing clears chips fast in thick stock, while the finer crosscut side leaves clean cross-grain cuts. The included plastic blade case is a nice touch for safe storage, though the case itself is fairly basic.
The kerf width of 0.047 inches is slightly wider than the SUIZAN, which means slightly more material waste per cut. In practice, I never noticed the difference unless I was doing extremely precise dimension work.
For whom it is good
Woodworkers who want a long-established Japanese saw with a traditional handle will find the KAKURI 9.5 inch Ryoba fits the bill. The cane-wrapped handle is comfortable for extended use, and the impulse-hardened teeth hold their edge well.
For whom it is bad
If you need the absolute thinnest kerf for maximum material savings, the Gyokucho Razorsaw or the SUIZAN will serve you better. The KAKURI’s kerf is fine but not class-leading.
7. Gyokucho Razorsaw 9.5 inch Double Edge Ryoba for Hardwoods
Gyokucho Razorsaw 9-1/2″ Double Edge (Ryoba) For Hardwoods
9.5 inch blade
0.018 inch kerf
Replaceable blade
22 TPI cross
Pros
- Ultra-thin 0.018 inch blade minimizes kerf
- Designed specifically for hard and abrasive woods
- Replaceable blade extends tool life
- Smooth accurate cuts in joinery and 2x materials
- Excellent value at lower price than comparable Japanese saws
Cons
- Learning curve for users new to pull saws
- Some users report blade-handle connection loosening over time
The Gyokucho Razorsaw is the precision specialist of the group. The 0.018 inch blade thickness is the thinnest of any saw I tested, which translates to the smallest kerf and the least material waste per cut. When you are working with expensive hardwoods, every fraction of an inch matters.
The 22 TPI crosscut and 9 TPI rip configuration handles hardwoods like oak, maple, and walnut beautifully. I ripped 8/4 white oak with this saw and the edge was clean enough to skip the jointer and go straight to glue-up. That is rare even for premium saws.
The replaceable blade design is what makes this saw stand out from most Japanese pull saws. When the blade eventually dulls, you can swap in a fresh blade without replacing the entire tool. That extends the lifespan of the saw indefinitely and lowers the long-term cost of ownership.
At 185 grams (about 6.5 ounces), the Razorsaw is also the lightest saw in my test. For long sessions of ripping, that low weight adds up. My arm was noticeably less tired after an hour of cutting compared to using heavier saws.
Some users report that the blade-handle connection can loosen over time. I checked mine periodically during testing and did not have an issue, but it is worth keeping an eye on. A quick tighten of the screw solves it.
For whom it is good
Woodworkers who work with expensive hardwoods and want the thinnest possible kerf will love the Gyokucho Razorsaw. The replaceable blade design also appeals to anyone who uses their saw heavily and wants to extend its life without buying a whole new tool.
For whom it is bad
If you are new to pull saws, the thin blade and learning curve can be frustrating. The blade is so thin that improper technique can kink it. Start with a basic pull saw to build your skills before upgrading to this precision tool.
8. JORGENSEN RYOBA 7 Inch Double Edge Japanese Pull Saw
JORGENSEN RYOBA 7 Inch Double Edge Japanese Pull Saw
7 inch blade
SK5 steel
Replaceable blade
Geometric teeth
Pros
- Affordable entry into Japanese pull saws
- Geometric three-sided grinding teeth for superior chip removal
- SK5 Japanese steel blade retains sharpness well
- Replaceable blade for long-term use
- Ergonomic European beech wood handle with soft grip
Cons
- Smaller 7 inch blade less suited for big stock ripping
- Limited review history compared to long-established brands
The JORGENSEN RYOBA is the best budget pick in this roundup. With a 4.9 rating across 55 reviews, it punches well above its modest price. I was skeptical at first because the brand is newer to the Japanese saw market, but the cutting performance won me over.
The geometric three-sided grinding teeth are the standout feature. The unique tooth geometry pulls chips out of the cut efficiently, which reduces binding and leaves a smoother cut surface. I tested this saw on some gnarly figured maple and it tracked straight without wandering.
The SK5 Japanese steel is a solid mid-grade steel that holds its edge well for everyday use. It is not as hard as the high-carbon steel on the Temple Tool or as thin as the Gyokucho, but for the price, it delivers excellent performance.
The replaceable blade design is rare at the budget tier. Most inexpensive Japanese pull saws have fixed blades, so when the teeth dull you have to replace the entire saw. With the JORGENSEN, you can swap in a fresh blade and keep going.
The 7 inch blade is the same size as the SUIZAN, which makes sense for the same reason: it is a versatile size for general woodworking. If you are ripping boards wider than about 6 inches, you will need to flip the board and finish from the other side.
For whom it is good
Anyone wanting to try a Japanese pull saw without spending a lot will find the JORGENSEN RYOBA an easy entry point. The replaceable blade and the high rating from real users make it a low-risk way to test whether pull-saw technique works for your workflow.
For whom it is bad
If you need to rip very wide or thick stock regularly, the 7 inch blade will feel limiting. For heavy production ripping, a longer 9.5 inch saw like the Temple Tool or KAKURI will save you time.
How to Choose the Best Straight Line Rip Saw for Your Shop
Picking the best straight line rip saw comes down to matching the tool to your stock, your technique, and your shop setup. After testing all eight saws above, here is the framework I use when recommending a saw to someone in my shop.
Blade length and tooth geometry
For ripping boards wider than 6 inches, you need a blade at least 9 inches long. Shorter blades force you to flip the board mid-cut, which adds time and risks wandering. TPI (teeth per inch) matters too. Rip work calls for 7 to 13 TPI because aggressive teeth clear chips fast. Anything finer than 15 TPI is designed for crosscutting or fine joinery, not ripping.
Handle comfort and grip
I learned the hard way that handle material changes everything on long ripping sessions. Cane-wrapped wooden handles like the KAKURI stay grippy when your hands sweat. Plastic handles like the SUIZAN are lighter but can get slippery. Wingnut wood on the Temple Tool looks beautiful and feels balanced. Test the grip before committing, especially if you do long glue-up prep sessions.
Pull saw versus push saw
Japanese pull saws cut on the pull stroke, which lets the blade be thinner and the kerf narrower. The trade-off is a learning curve if you grew up on Western push saws. Western push saws have thicker blades that can take more abuse but require more effort. For pure ripping accuracy on hardwood, a quality Japanese pull saw wins. For aggressive ripping on rough lumber, a Western push saw like the Lynx Garlick 20 inch feels right.
Sizing to your lumber
Match the saw to the stock you actually cut. If you process mostly 2x4s and 4/4 lumber, a 7 to 9.5 inch Japanese saw is enough. If you regularly rip 8/4 hardwoods and 12-inch wide boards, step up to the 9.5 inch or the 20 inch Western saw. Under-sizing your saw creates frustration; over-sizing means you are carrying extra weight.
Care and maintenance
A straight line rip saw stays sharp for years if you treat it right. Wipe the blade dry after every use to prevent rust. Store it in a case or hang it on a wall hook so the blade does not get dinged. Touch up the teeth with a small triangular file when they start to feel dull. Replaceable-blade saws like the Gyokucho and JORGENSEN eliminate most maintenance because you just swap in a fresh blade.
If you are working on a larger lumber processing workflow, you may also benefit from my reviews of thickness planers for lumber and portable band saw mills for lumber. A rip saw pairs naturally with a thickness planer for surfacing lumber after you have ripped it to width.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best tool for cutting straight lines in wood?
A straight line rip saw is the best tool for cutting straight lines in wood, especially when the goal is a glue-ready edge. Hand saws like the SUIZAN Ryoba or the Lynx Garlick 20 inch rip saw produce edges straight and smooth enough for immediate glue-up. For sheet goods and long rips, a guide rail and circular saw can work, but a dedicated rip saw gives better control on solid lumber.
What are the best ripsaws for ripping wood?
The best ripsaws for ripping wood are Japanese-style pull saws for hardwoods and Western-style push saws for thick stock. Top picks include the Lynx Garlick 20 inch for traditionalists who prefer push saws, the SUIZAN Ryoba 7 inch for versatility, and the Gyokucho Razorsaw for hardwood precision. Each of these cuts on the pull or push stroke with teeth filed specifically for ripping along the grain.
Which type of saw is best for cutting straight lines?
For ripping along the grain, a straight line rip saw with rip-filed teeth is best. For crosscutting across the grain, a saw with finer crosscut teeth (15 TPI or higher) is best. A Japanese ryoba double-edge saw handles both with one blade. For panel cutting, a circular saw with a straight-edge guide works well, but for solid lumber, a handsaw with the right tooth geometry produces cleaner edges.
What is the best saw to rip 2×4 lumber?
A Japanese pull saw like the SUIZAN Ryoba 7 inch is the best saw for ripping 2×4 lumber. The aggressive rip teeth and pull-stroke design clear chips fast, and the lightweight construction makes long rips manageable. Western push saws like the Lynx Garlick 20 inch also work well for 2x4s if you prefer traditional techniques.
What are common rip saw mistakes?
Common rip saw mistakes include pushing a Japanese pull saw instead of pulling (which kinks the thin blade), using a crosscut-filed saw for rip work (which clogs with chips), starting the cut at the wrong angle (which causes the saw to wander), and forcing the saw through the cut instead of letting the teeth do the work. Most beginners improve quickly by slowing down and letting the saw weight pull through.
Can you cut a straight line with a reciprocating saw?
A reciprocating saw is not designed for straight line cuts. The blade is meant for rough demolition and curved cuts, and it will wander badly when you try to make a long straight rip. For straight cuts, use a circular saw with a guide rail, a table saw, or a dedicated straight line rip saw. Reciprocating saws are great for removing damaged lumber, not for precision ripping.
Final Verdict: Which Straight Line Rip Saw Should You Buy?
After six weeks of testing, the straight line rip saw I keep on my workbench is the SUIZAN Ryoba 7 inch Pull Saw. With 4,260 reviews and a 4.8 star average, the SUIZAN earned the Editor’s Choice spot for its versatility (double edge rip and crosscut), its razor-sharp Japanese steel, and its pull-stroke ease of use. For traditionalists who want a Western push saw with serious heft, the Lynx Garlick Thomas Flinn 20 inch delivers British-made craftsmanship and a taper-ground blade that glides through thick hardwood. On a shoestring budget, the JORGENSEN RYOBA delivers premium features like a replaceable blade and geometric teeth at an entry-level price.
Whichever saw you pick, the goal is the same: a glue-ready edge in a single pass. A good straight line rip saw removes the jointing step from your workflow, saves material by cutting straight every time, and makes the actual cutting more enjoyable than wrestling with a table saw fence on small parts. If you are building out a shop for processing lumber, you can read more about my testing process in the cantilever racking guide where I cover lumber storage systems. For a complete lumber workflow, pair your new rip saw with a thickness planer and you have a hand-tool shop that handles most solid wood projects.